Cover girl!!! independent project

Welcome to ‘Cover girl’ challenge!

So exciting and scary. Aim of this challenge is to ‘push’ us – the makeup artists – towards the independence. It is vital to be independent in this industry, because this will allow us to find so crucial contacts. Good network will help to find paid work.

I have trouble to find a photographer, but I was lucky enough to have a friend who starts as a photographer and she needed me as much as I needed her – so everyone is a winner.

I found a model through HNC student, whom I met recently – yes, networking brings results.

Magazine of my choice is     Source

I came in to contact with i-D Facebook page few months ago and I loved it. The articles and especially the pictures – sort of ‘I did not try too hard to look that amazing’ pictures as well as the ones with absolutely amazing pictures of well set and thought through photos.

I was thinking how could I make my makeup and hair styling looking as if it was taken straight from the magazine and I decided the only way it was to ask my model to close her eye or cover it with something. But I did not wanted to copy any ideas as I wanted it to be MY form start to finish. So here it is from the physics theory

” as the Big Bang happened, it sent off another one, the mirror image of ours, with the ‘arrow of time’ running the other way” 1.

My cover girl has one eye covered but it is the other eye. In original magazine, cover models have either closed or covered right eye – my model will have her left eye covered, to mirror the original image just like in the mirror universe. So will be the logo. It will be on the right side and the ‘i’ letter will be mirrored to bring together the logo and the covered eye.

I was very impressed when we have incorporated wool into makeup, so I have decided to use wool in my final design. The inspiration for wool design and how would it sit on face was my flatmates favorite sitcom Star Trek (being in the same living room, forced me to watch few episodes) and his favorite Borg characters. I am not taking this image as it is but I am using the idea if covered eye and lines on the face.

Star Trek Borg Patrick Barnitt Source

I started then to create desired shape

Image on the left looked too uneven and I thought if would be difficult to create all the swirls.

Image on the right was much easier to create and it looked as an eye, which would cover the eye and be the eye at the same time. I choose the one on the right.

To create my face/head dress I have used wool in red and liquid latex and Styrofoam head, scissors, ceramic bowl. I first created a small swirl in my fingers and then I place it on the heads’ eye. I held the swirl in place and using my other hand I started transferring latex onto wool. I did not used any tools, only my fingers. Next I used single thread and started creating an eye shape; as previously I held it with one hand and I used other hand to transfer latex, drop by drop onto the wool. I have used spatula to straighten the lines. Once I was happy with the eye shape, I then moved to create 4 straight lines which would connect the eye and the top of the head. I did not wanted to use spirit gum to glue the piece onto face and that is why I had to extend the piece onto hair; I would be able then to fit it securly with the hair style.

I want makeup to be light and neutral. With well contoured natural features. I think because of the wool design I should block out the brow as I think the horizontal line of the brow would interfere with vertical lines of the mask/head dressing.

I started with covering the model with a gown and I asked her to remove her earrings. I then moisturized her face and went to the kitchen (the shoot was done at my place) to make a coffee for us. Step by step of my makeup design:

1. I brushed models’ brows upwards. Using cotton bud I have applied spirit gum on both brows, moving cotton bud in different direction to cover all hair. I left it for few seconds to oxidize (air gets to the molecules of the glue and it allows it to become sticky). After few seconds I started pressing the glue to the skin, by rolling the back of the brush over the glue. I repeated this process on other brow.

2. Next I have to cover the brow with cine wax. I used spatula and my fingers to smooth the wax.

3. My model had very dark brow colour. I had to use D32 (red toned concealer) by Derma palette. Next I set this with loose powder by Ben Nye.

4. I have added another layer of D32 and I set it again using powder.

5. Using Le Maquillage full coverage foundation, creme based, I have mixed yellow toned foundation, matching models’ skin colour. Foundation brush was used to apply the foundation and big blending brush to merge it with the skin.

6. Using the same palette I have created contour, using dark brown colour, which I have applied with foundation brush below cheek bones, on the side of the nose, jaw line. All was blended using blending brush.

7. For my highlighter I used white  by Supracolor palette. It was applied on the bridge of the nose, on the cheek bones, chin and above the brow (or where the brow used to be) Because foundation and highlighter were both creme based products it was much easier for the two to blend. Blending brush was used to create smooth highlight.

8. Using big fan brush I have set the foundation using loose hd powder by Mac.

9. Eyes – I used ‘black track’ gel liner by Mac and angled brush. I drown the lines on the top eye lid. I did not created too big wing.

10. No mascara or false eye lashes were used.

11. Blusher – using blusher brush and blush by Mac in rosy tones I have applied a light application on the apple of the cheek.

12. Lipstick – lip liner ‘Red Cherry’ by Mac and lipstick ‘Ruby Woo’ by Mac.


Hair step by step:

1. I created a ponytail, by brushing all hair on top of the head.

2. I used hair spray to smooth the pulled hair.

3. Secured it with the elastic band.

4. Using postisch brush I have teased the ponytail.

5. I have added the latex/wool face/head dress on the face and head and secured it with grips.

5. Teased ponytail I wrapped around the elastic band, covering latex piece. Bun has to be rough not smooth.

6. Secured it all with grips. I made sure no grips were showing.

7. Using red wool I wrapped it around the bun.

I wanted the bun to look messy just like a tree on the top of the hill.

A Tree on the Hill source

I have seen a girl having the same style I had in mind and I took the picture

 bus trip



Photographer Catia Magalhaes Facebook page ‘Miss Click Photography’ – agreed to help with my project. She specializes in children photography. Catia was interested in this project because this pictures could be used on her portfolio. We have taken 176 pictures – about 30 were first shot at home. I have amazing yellow walls in the living room and I wanted to use the contrast of red (wool) and yellow colours. But for some reason it did not look on the pictures as vivid as wanted it to look. Then we went to my local park on the hill called ‘One tree hill’ and we kept moving around taking pictures, using different backgrounds.

I wanted to incorporate this hanging loosely wool from the back of the hair (when added to the hair I did not cut on purpose). I wanted to connect my model to the tree (literally) but it was a symbol of human connections… relationships, social networking, nature. We (as humans) are not that unique as we want to be, there are different connections which define who we are.

My makeup inspiration was makeup done for Zac Posen for SS15. I love the bold red lip and clean makeup. Unfortunately due to my face/head design I had to blocked out models brows as I strongly believe it would interfere with the whole design and it would damage my whole concept.

My mood board:

And this is my final image for i-D cover magazine

ania-okladka-bw (Large)


Second image is before photoshop. My blog allowes me to upload small pictures, that means quality of my images is not that great.

On my presentation I will show how well my picture looked.





1. accessed on the 17/02/2015