The time has come… The final showcase of the skills I learnt over the 2 years of studies…I have very mixed emotions about it. Last year when I assisted Chloe a 2nd year student I haven’t even thought about my final design and here I am brainstorming for my THE BEST design yet!!! I feel excited and scared. Excited because of all the possibilities and choices; scared because I what if I won’t achieve my full potential?? What if what I chose is not enough??
Let’s stick to optimism and excitement 😀 🙂
HERE ARE MY MIND MAPS OF ALL 8 THEMES
- Historical portraits
4. Culture traits
6. Literary subjects
7. Natural world
8. City life
For next stage I have chosen 5 themes and I would like to present my visual mood boards to those themes
- Historical portrait – I chose images of very famous people throughout the history. All this people represent different type of power. From beauty and art through the scientists to gangsters. We all know their faces and some of us wanted to be like them or own the wealth they have/had or the beauty they have/had or the respect their position brought.
2. Death – Exploring this subject is very haunting. To me death means loosing someone who is close to me. It means respecting the past and all my ancestors.
3. War – I was lucky and I did not experienced any horrors of war and I hope it will stay like that.
4. Natural world – so many ideas come to my mind when I think about natural world. Nature is everything to all of us but unfortunately some of us forget that without nature we die. Nature is beauty.
5. Fantasy – I love reading fantasy books or watching fantasy inspired movies. Endless possibilities in creativity.
It was very difficult to choose from one of the themes. I was drawn to 3 themes and I decided to merge ALL 3.
I really liked natural world, fantasy and historical portrait.
Here are movies inspired by natural world or including natural world as power greater then humans
‘The Impossible’ 2012
Movie The Impossible 2012 starring Ewan McGregor and Naomi Watts (nominated for an Oscar for her role). Makeup and hair designer Alessandro Bertolazzi.
Water as powerful force and a horrific monster.
‘In the heart of the sea’ 2015
Movie ‘In the heart of the sea’ 2015 starring Chris Hemsworth. Hair and makeup designer Fae Hammond
‘The Revenant’ 2015
Movie ‘The revenant’ 2015 with Leonardo Di Caprio and Tom Hardy. Hair department head: Robert A. Pandini, makeup department head: Graham Johnston
‘The fly’ 1986
Movie ‘The Fly 1986’ starring Jeff Goldblum and Geena Davis. Makeup by Shonagh Jabour, hair by Ivan Lynch
This is how galaxies and beautiful landscapes with a touch of modern digital technology can inspire to create beautiful ideas on how to dye hair.
This picture clearly shows how themes can merge – natural world and fantasy working together as perfect couple.
Tree inspiration allowed its creator to make this beautiful crown
This headdress reminded me of the hat designed by Alexander McQueen. I like that this headdress doesn’t copy directly McQueen but it has its own spin – the brunches. It also doesn’t cover the face but it compliments it…
I am very much interested in snow. Maybe it is because I grew up in Poland were winters are cold and white. Snow and all its forms is stunning and very inspiring.
MAKEUP INSPIRED BY ICE AND SNOW
When I think of insects I need a moment…I like some insects e.g. caterpillars are cute, fluffy and I like their feel on my skin. I also like butterflies because of its beauty. Ants are fascinating to watch but a nuisance if you have to share a living space with them.
My dislike grew over the last few years towards spiders, moths and beetles. And I think this is why I am going to look into insects I dislike. People say beauty can be found in anything so let me try to find it in crawlies…
Painted beetle I really would like to include in my body painting design realistic looking insects.
Colourful dragon fly I really like this image as this is very close to what I have in mind designing makeup inspired by dragonfly.
I am going to use historical portraits of the 18th century aristocracy for my hair design. I want the hair design to be very obvious 18th century with a fashion twist.
18TH CENTURY HAIRSTYLES
Movie ‘Belle’ 2013 starring Gugu Mbatha-Raw as Dido Elizabeth Belle. Makeup and hair designer Marese Langan and Beverley Binda key makeup artist.
I wanted to include a female actress of ethnic skin to show how the 18th century hair would be styled on very curly hair.
Ethnic skin women of the 18th century wore scarfs or turbans to cover the hair.
The law demanded women of color in Louisiana to cover their hair with a fabric cloth starting in 1789 as a part of what was called the Bando du buen gobierno (Edict for Good Government). What these rules were meant to do was try to curtail the growing influence of the free black population and keep the social order of the time.The edict included sections specifically about the changing of certain “unacceptable” behaviors of the free black women in the colony including putting an end to what he and others believed to be the overly ostentatious hairstyles of these ladies which drew the attention of white men, and the jealousy of white women. These rules are called the “Tignon Laws” A tignon (pronounced “tiyon”) is a headdress.
‘The Duchess’ 2008
Movie ‘The Duchess’ 2008 starring Keira Knightley. Makeup designer Daniel Phillips and hair designer Jan Archibald.
The Duchess I chose this picture because I adore this wig worn by the main character. Its height is impressing and the styling simple but effective. Feathers add extra height. For Keira it must have been very heavy to wear and this is what I need to take into consideration is the weight of my wig or headdress.
This closeup of the 2 characters shows how hair was laid in the front and at the back.
‘Les Miserables’ 2012
Helena is the best period actress in my opinion. She looked amazing in Les Miserables 2012
Movie ‘Les Miserables’ 2012 starring Anna Hathaway and Hugh Jackman. Makeup and hair designer Lisa Westcott
FASHION AND MAKEUP INFLUENCE OF THE 18TH CENTURY ON MODERN LOOK
Chanel 2013 18th century people loved beauty spots. Chanel used this makeup trend from the past to showcase its logo Coco Chanel.
BBC FOUR 10/05 7.30 pm
I have taken pictures of my TV of the insects I liked the most.
Pictures of the hoarfrost on my car which I took on the 28/02/16 at around 1 am. The car was parked at the Stansted airport for 3 day during very cold time.
NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM 28/04/2016
West Thames College books
‘Caroline Saulnier’ and ‘Body Art Fashion’
I decided to purchase my fabrics in Shepherd’s Bush market. Colour scheme for my design is white, silver, grey. Fabrics are different in colour and texture. I wanted to use fabric to show hoarfrost and ice.
I bought a hoop under dress placed different fabrics over it to see how it all looks.
To create a snow flake I have used the darkest fabric and using soap I drawn the snow flake and then cut it out
I wanted to add more sparkle to the snow flake so I decided to add decorative glass which I bought in Lavenders near West Thames College. To stuck it to the fabric I used fabric glue and allow it to dry overnight.
Next when the glue got dry I have saw the snow flake to the most shiny fabric and covered it with the most sheer fabric.
I started placing the fabric on the hoop dress in various positions. Some of it was kept flat, some draped. I then attached the snow flake.
Next I folded the darkest fabric and using scissors I cut out various shaped.
I have bought a white bra which I then covered with one of the fabrics I bought.
DRAGON FLY EYES
I created dragon fly eyes from a plastic ball. I painted the ball using silver acrylic paint. Next using various colours then cover the whole surface. Last stage was to apply glue glitter in dots.
CREATING A HAIR CAGE
I used wire mesh and cut out a long rectangular shape, big enough to sit comfortably on the head. I joined the both ends together and connect it with the flexible wire from the inside. HEALTH AND SAFETY : I had to make sure no wire sticks out so I wouldn’t hurt my model or myself when I will place the cage on her head. Next I have bend the top of the cage to round the edges.
STYLING THE HAIR
This is my hair design. I want it to be a fusion of traditional 18th century hair styles and a fantasy hair.
I covered earlier prepared cage with crepe hair and synthetic hair. To keep everything in place I used hot glue.
Once all cage was covered with crepe hair and synthetic hair. I then spray it all with silver paint.
I tested the paint first on the hair.
I also spay fake pine tree brunch in the same silver colour.
Next I set the wig using setting lotion and carmen rolls. Once rolls cooled down I brush the whole hair and and rolled the hair back up into a traditional 18th century hairstyle. I then placed the cage on the top of the head secured it well.
After styling the wig in my chosen style I have realized the blond wig is very fine and it was missing hair in places. I took the wig to college and set it again. This time I used hot sticks. To cover all holes I have used wefts in various shades of blond. Wefts were rolled on the wood dawling of 2 sizes.
On this picture it is clearly visible how bald was this wig.
Styled wig and the result.
After the photo shoot assessment I had to reset the wig. This time I decided to attache the cage to the wig and I also decided to add pieces of fabric to the rolled hair. Also I wrapped the whole cage with one of the sheer fabrics. Silver pine tree brunches were also added to hide any gaps in the wig. I think all this changes would connected a lot better to the costume and it would eliminate visual disconnection between the cage and the wig.
I wanted my design to include body panting of the upper body of insects.
Next I tried different green colours to create the caterpillar.
At home I decided to use different green, more lime colour and here are the results.
To paint the whole caterpillar it took me 1 hour. All of it was painted free hand.
I invited my model Rhian for a small trial. I wanted to see how could I create a lace effect and how would it look. I used air gun, 2 different fabrics and brushes.
Each fabric gave different effect but unfortunately I didn’t like any of them. It was either not too visible or to it looked muddy. I then decided to try and paint her skin using brushes.
I liked the idea of painting her body better. At that stage I was still considering it…
After photo shoot assessment and some constructive criticism I decided to try different design for body painting. The criticism I have heard was that the caterpillar was painted in too vibrant colours. So I changed the colour scheme. I firstly painted free hand a larvae using black and white Mac body paints. Next I made stencils using acetate sheets and hot pen. This time I have used airbrush paints by Temptu Dura, alcohol based body paints. At the end I added self adhesive silver diamonds. Here are the results.
I was very pleased with this home trial and this is my final choice for body painting for the final show.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT FACE AND BODY MAKEUP
Here are the pictures of the makeup products I tried on Rhian.
I wanted her skin to have a beautiful glow so I tried creme and spray
Rhian is only 18 years old and after trying 2 different types of foundation Mac Face and body and Le Maqullage palette I decided to choose the first one. Her skin is beautiful and it doesn’t need a lot of heavy foundation. Also Face and body by Mac gives this beautiful glow.
THE ASSESSMENT DAY 25/05/16
I was really relaxed on the day of the assessment. It felt natural and it was fan to be able to create a full character.
Only after seeing the full image I noticed few things I wasn’t 100% happy about.
Ringlets around Rhians’ face look more like Victorian ringlets rather then 18th century.
Bra and dress seams to be disconnected.
Caterpillar is too bright and colourful…
Big spiders look too flat. They were not painted (highlighted).
I decoded to go back to college and add some small touches to the dress and hair.
I started by connecting the bra and the skirt using dark grey in front and back. Back would be extended to create illusion of wings. Next to ease the difference in colours I covered it with very sheer fabric. I fitted the fabrics around the waist. Next using earlier painted fake pine tree brunches I have added it under the bra. It gave more organic feel to the dress.
I then decided to paint the black bugs to give it more depth. I used acrylic paint and shade it. For extra spark I have I decided to add glitter.
To tone down the warm coloures on lizards and smaller bugs I have used acrylic paint in black and I stippled the colour using stipple sponge. I wanted some colour to pop through but I didn’t want it to be too strong as the costume is in monochrome colours.
HERE IS THE FINISHED COSTUME!!!!
THE FINAL SHOW 6/06
The day has come!!!
My model arrived at 11 o’clock. I started from plaiting her to prepare it for the wig application. I decided to put the wig on shortly before the dress rehearsal as the wig was heavy. After preparing the hair I moved to the face.
-I moisturized her face using Simple moisturizer.
-Next I applied Kryolan eye shadow in yellow, pink (on the eye lid) light blue (socket line) and green (above the socket line).
-To tone down her natural eye brow colour I have applied allover the brow vanilla pigment by Mac.
-Using stipple sponge and body paints by Mac I have stipple yellow, blue, red on her temples and above the brow area all the way up to the hair line. Later I have extended stippled colour on the eye brow area.
-Next using Face and Body by Mac I have applied the foundation on her face from eyes down.
-I also contoured her face using compressed contouring palette by Kryloan.
-Blusher in red by Kryolan
-On her lips I have applied dark brown pencil by Kryolan and covered her lips all over. Next I have applied clear lip gloss by sleek
-To protect models skin I have applied barrier mousse by Kryolan.
-Next I have used earlier prepared stencil and I have airbrushed on the white paint by Temptu Dura on her shoulder. Paint was airbrushed in the middle of the stencil. For the outer edges I used black by Temptu Dura. I then airbrushed shades to give more depth to the design.
-I then repeated the same process on the other shoulder.
-Another bug was airbrushed on her back using the same technique. The bug was created from 2 parts leaving the space between both parts free of airbrush paints. I then hand painted the folds of the skin, simulating as if the bug was stuck under the skin.
-In the middle of her chest I have also airbrushed body of the spider in black. I have painted free hand the legs of the spider and its hair, veins.
-all the bugs had self adhesive diamonds applied into the lightest points to give more spark.
-Using liquid metal paint in silver by Kryolan I have added few brush strokes all around her body.
-I plaited models hair and wrapped it around the head and secured it with grips
-Stocking cup was applied on wrapped hair
-I then put the wig on and secured it with grips it the hair line, by the ears and on the nape-
-Hair line on the nape was very visible so I have covered it with weft rolled on the dawling. Any gaps in the wig were covered with pine tree brunches in silver.
It was the greatest day when I found out I was accepted onto the HND Specialist Makeup course. The course was very challenging but there is nothing I would change
The most challenging part of the whole study was the academic part of the course. Log books were never an easy task for me as I am not an English speaking student. I had to put a lot more effort to achieve the level of writing which was expected of me. Also I wanted to feel as proud of the information I have included in my log books as I would be if I would be writing in Polish, my mother thong. The first log book was a disaster but I know with all next log books I was making progress. I have learned a lot when I did research for any of the log books.
Makeup lessons over the two years have thought me a lot. I have had few struggles here and there e.g. how to cover the eye brows, freedom in fashion makeup or makeup for ethnic skin on TV makeup lessons. But every time I would fail I would get up and try it again. This is what this course thought me, never give up, just walk away and come back in the moment and look at whatever you were doing with a fresh eye.
I have struggled a lot at the beginning of the body painting lesson. I couldn’t create anything which would satisfy me. But again, I kept trying. I then learn that I work very well in a group, even though I did not have anything in common with my team mates.
Special effects showed to me I love sculpting and the whole process of creating prosthetic pieces. It was not very easy to forget about symmetric way of applying makeup when creating special effects makeups. At the end I have understood it.
Hair lessons were always very easy to follow. I have enjoyed the period styles I was ask to recreate in year one. My favourite till this day are 1870’s late Victorian hair styles. I discovered that I enjoy hair styling as much as doing makeup. But I also know I prefer to style period hairstyles rather than modern hairstyles. Wig styling was as enjoyable as hair styling and the possibility to work in any production which would involve wigs sounds appealing. Hair knotting was another enjoyable subject on this course. I would very much consider to work as wig maker.
Two years went very quickly and the time has come for a final show. I have not contribute to the production of the show. I thought I would not be able to finish my final piece on time as well as working full time. I think the production team worked well. The rest of the students were well informed about any ideas and changes through Facebook group conversation. Any questions asked by any of the students were always answered quickly and in satisfying manner. Music selection was good and I think it was a great idea that we had most of instrumental music rather than e.g. top 10 of British charts. It would be too distracting to the audience. I really liked the title for our show ‘exodus’ as well as the poster created for the final show. I think it was an amazing idea to reward our teachers after the show.
On a day of the show I have been very calm. The adrenaline was pumping but it was this positive buzz rather than fear. I knew that changes I made after the photo shoot assessment made the whole difference to the whole design. I have practiced all changes and I knew I was right by changing it. My model was very cooperative and I felt she wanted me to succeed. It was a long day and very tiring for me and for my model but I know the break of 30 minutes we had at 1.30 had made the difference. I had organised food, snacks and drinks for both of us and I made sure both of us stayed well hydrated. Makeup came out as I wanted it to look. I did not have any problems when I have applied the wig on. I have struggled with dragon fly eyes which were a part of my design. I could not attached it well to the wig, it was either too loose or one side would not match the other side.
I was very glad I have decided to include stencils. Hand painted bug took too much time and I only had time to paint one single bug on the photo shoot assessment. On the day of the show. I have created two beautify airbrushed larvae with highlights and shadows on her shoulders which I am very proud of. On her back half of the larvae was hand painted (white colour) and the edges were airbrushed. I should have airbrushed white colour everywhere I need it to be on all bugs and then change to the black colour. So when I moved to the larvae on the back I already had black paint in the air gun. I would lose a lot of time on cleaning the black paint out. I decided to hand paint the white colour. It did not came out as nice and crispy as the front larvae.
I have seen my model walking the cat walk and she was amazing. She has performing arts background and she took Sukis’ advice on how to present my design and she’s done it brilliantly. Well done to her.
I am very proud of myself. This design is the most complicated design I have ever done and I think this was the whole point of this show. I know I will miss this college, this course and its challenges. I have met great people, I have met great teachers and I am feeling very inspired. Thank you all great teachers I had a chance to meet.
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